Travel Diary: South of France

Travel Diary
Welcome to the PORTA travel series, where Francesca and I take you along for the ride as we head to Europe to source product for your table and home. Come with us as we introduce you to the makers, hotels, restaurants and museums that we find along the way. We have a lot of fun, and we hope by reading these that you do too!
Stone street with old buildings and a tall cypress tree under a blue sky

Opened in the 1920s and famous for the rip roaring artists such as Picasso, Marc Chagall, Henri Matisse, Joan Miro and Alexander Calder who drank and danced the night away on the open terrace with their friends in the 1940s and 50s, this hotel has remained a destination of pilgrimage for the art lovers who visit to soak in the history, and view the extraordinary collection of artwork that grace the hotel walls in the most ordinary of ways. Exhausted, we wandered the hotel in awe of its walls, had a romantic dinner side by side, eating a simple and delicious meal of poached white fish, vegetables, egg and aioli, typical of Provance and tumbled into bed.

Vine-covered house with tall cypress trees and a swimming pool in front under a clear blue sky
Elegant dining room with white tablecloths, wooden chairs, framed art, and a red mobile hanging from the ceiling
Framed painting of a knife and cup against a dark background, in an ornate carved frame

First stop in Marseille was the studio of Sarah Espuente, otherwise known as Oeuvres Sensibiles. While we had already worked with Sarah, offering her wonderful hand embroidered double placemats and napkins through PORTA, we had never met in person. Meeting in person is always the best as in these meetings other ideas percolate and the personal connection and understanding is made - it's just not the same online no matter how many zooms take place or emails are exchanged back and forth.

Two women talking in a rustic workshop with embroidered fabrics on a table
Corkboard with pinned handwritten notes and fabric samples on a workshop wall
Computer screen displaying digital line drawings of seashells and coral
Workshop with weathered walls, shelves of folded fabrics, and an iron on a workbench

In Marseille we stayed in Hotel La Releve. Located in the buzzy 7th arrondissement above La Releve restaurant, each room has a different, inventive look, decorated by Honore Design who has a shop down the road and lives across the street.

We had the most delicious and jolly mussels and chips for dinner at La Coquille. A must when in Marseille!

Bathroom with pedestal sink and green-tiled bathtub alcove
Person holding a wine bottle at a dinner table with mussel shells, while a woman smiles in the background
Dinner table with plates of mussel shells, bread, and wine glasses

Atelier Vime lies at the heart of wicker working that was developed in Vallabregues which once counted as many of 450 wicker workers in the 18th century. In 1878 a workshop was installed within the mansion that has been lovingly restored by Benoît Rauzy and Anthony Watson who helm the Atelier and through their collection of willow baskets, lighting, mirror and furniture have quietly built up a cult following. As we are shepherded around the house by Benoit and Anthony, told of the history and future plans, sipping apricot juice with them at their kitchen table, we feel as though we have stepped into the pages of Architectural Digest. Each vignette is considered but natural, even their dog poses for our photographs. We left with a hushed sense of awe in their passion, vision and the strength of the brand they are building. What a brilliant dream.

Antique room with a tapestry on the wall, ornate table with a lamp, and vintage chairs
Bedroom with vintage furniture, patterned curtains, and a dog lying on the bed
Vintage bathroom with a pedestal sink, oval mirror, wicker hamper, and framed art on the wall
Room with wicker baskets, framed photos on the floor, a small table, and an ornate mirror on the wall
Vintage bathroom with a pedestal sink, oval mirror, wicker hamper, and framed art on the wall
Canopy daybed with patterned pillows and blanket against a weathered wall
Antique room with a tapestry on the wall, ornate table with a lamp, and vintage chairs
Vintage room with worn walls, a chair, side table with lamp, and religious and figure paintings
Two men in jeans and sweaters standing with arms crossed outside a rustic wooden doorway

Founded in 1827 and still run by sixth and seventh generations of the family who founded it, this amazing general store holds nearly 200 years of history that has made this shop an institution. It is filled with soap, pots and pan, toys, linens and candles, quills with in, wax with stamps, stationary, socks - you need it, Maison Empereur has it. 


Display of colorful feather dusters, brushes, and stacked soaps in front of a wooden staircase
stacked soaps in wooden dresser
Vintage shop interior with glass display cases, hanging toys, and shelves of assorted goods

Francesca's ancestors ruled over Les Baux-de-Provence by back in the (medieval) day, so we had to check out her old stomping grounds. As it turns out, harkening from the 10th century and set atop a precipitous rocky mountain, the Les Baux meant business and were clearly a family to be reckoned with! I guess some things never change…We arrived as the castle was closing, but Francesca politely explained that this was the place of her distant family and a kindly guard took pity on us and ushered us through the gates for a private viewing. The town was hung with flags that felt very PORTA - must be in the blood.

woman looking at a map outside
Cobblestone street lined with stone buildings and a tall cypress tree under a clear blue sky.
Cobblestone street lined with stone buildings and a women walking

Finally on to the town of Apt famous for its colored marbleized faience pottery aptly called Aptware, developed around the mid 18th century and initially inspired by the color of the soils in the region. The colors have now expanded to include the rainbow that can be combined to one's heart's desire, making for an exciting and daunting design proposition. A highly skilled technique, it was fascinating connecting to the makers and we are excited to bring what we landed on into the shop this summer.

Last but not least, we made our way back to Nice as the sun was setting, landing at the Hotel Amour. What a gem to end on - this hotel is perfect. We were about to head out to dinner, but realized there was quite a hubbub filtering into the bar and restaurant. We turned on our heels and made our way over. As the crowds gathered, the music rose and dinner came to a close, Francesca looked across the table and said ‘you know, we are about to get up and dance’. I did know, and dance into the night we did!

neon sign on building
bed with two pillows and overhead bookshelf
Shop the Story
The Classic Paring Knives, Set of 4, features stainless steel blades and blue, yellow, red, and green wooden handles—arranged upright on a white background—perfect for small kitchen tasks. Four empty ribbed glasses, a yellow-handled bottle opener, and a red knife from the Classic Paring Knives, Set of 4 rest on a wooden board atop a table with a patterned tablecloth.
Opinel

Classic Paring Knives, Set of 4 (Multicolor)

$50
Gem Bud Vase. Smoky green urn-shaped vase in hand-blown glass, medium size.

Gem Bud Vase (Smoke Green)

$158
Gem Bud Vase. Smoky green urn-shaped vase in hand-blown glass, small size.

Gem Bud Vase (Smoke Green)

$118
Gem Bud Vase. Olive brown urn-shaped vase in hand-blown glass, medium size.

Gem Bud Vase (Olive Green)

$158
Lauren Snack Bowl – clear glass with a slightly flared rim and textured, bubbled surface. Perfect for serving elegant snacks or ice cream, this glassware adds style to any table. Set against a plain white background. Someone holds the Lauren Snack Bowl filled with a layered dessert, using an elegant ice cream scoop. On the table beside them is another stylish glassware piece with a drink.

Lauren Snack Bowl (Clear)

$48
The Celine Snack Bowl, a handcrafted French bowl with a marbled red and white pattern, is shown against a plain white background—ideal for elegant entertaining. Celine Snack Bowl featuring a marbled red and white pattern, hexagonal shape, shown from above on a plain white background.

Celine Snack Bowl (Brown & White)

$198
The Gem Bud Vase, a round hand-blown translucent brown glass piece with a narrow opening, crafted in the South of France, is centered on a plain white background.

Gem Bud Vase (Olive Green)

$118
Celine Snack Bowl with a red and white marbled ceramic design, shown against a plain white background. The Celine Snack Bowl features a hexagonal shape and a marbled red and white pattern, shown from above on a plain white background.

Celine Snack Bowl (Brown & White)

$178
Lauren Water Jug. Clear bubble glass pitcher with handle. The Lauren Water Jug sits on a sunlit table beside glasses, three peaches, and patterned bowls, showcasing elegant French glassware.

Lauren Water Jug (Clear)

$198
Lauren Champagne Bucket. Clear bubble glass bottle bucket with decorative handles. The Lauren Champagne Bucket features clear glass with a textured, bubble-like surface and two round side handles, displayed against a plain white background.

Lauren Champagne Bucket (Clear)

$248
The Lauren Snack Bowl is a transparent blue glass bowl with a flared rim and small air bubbles, ideal for serving an ice cream scoop, shown against a plain white background. The Lauren Snack Bowl holds pink sorbet with an ice cream scoop beside it, all set on a striped tablecloth.

Lauren Snack Bowl (Blue)

$48
Two Lauren Champagne Glasses, set of 2, with clear textured glass and delicate air bubbles, are displayed side by side on a plain white background. A Lauren Champagne Glass, filled with bubbly champagne, sits beside a small black handbag on a stack of books atop a marble surface, with framed artwork in the background.

Lauren Champagne Glass, Set of 2 (Clear)

$118
The Lauren Champagne Bucket is a translucent purple glass ice bucket with two clear side handles and air bubbles throughout, set against a white background. The Lauren Champagne Bucket is a transparent purple glass bucket with two side handles, a translucent surface, and embedded air bubbles, shown on a white background.

Lauren Champagne Bucket (Lilac)

$248
The Bistrot Serving Set features a stainless steel spoon and fork with light brown, floral-patterned handles, evoking French flair. They are displayed side by side on a white background.
Sabre

Bistrot Serving Set (Horn)

$90.50
The 9.47 Table Knife features a straight, pointed steel blade and a smooth, light-colored handle, displayed against a white background to highlight its French craftsmanship inspired by the iconic Perceval 9.47. A plate with seared meat, roasted potatoes, and rhubarb is served with a handmade 9.47 Table Knife and fork on a decorative plate, showcasing French craftsmanship.
Perceval

9.47 Table Knife (Ivory)

$98
The Lauren Water Glass, Set of 2, features clear, textured glass tumblers with delicate air bubbles across their translucent surfaces, displayed side by side on a plain white background. A table set with Lauren Water Glasses, a bottle, bowls of olives and fruit, scattered playing cards, drinks, and people sitting around.

Lauren Water Glass, Set of 2 (Clear)

$78
The Gem Bud Vase is a round, translucent mauve hand-blown glass vase with a narrow neck and wide body, ideal for displaying buds. Shown against a plain white background. The Gem Bud Vase, hand blown and small, holds orange tulips on a table beside a wooden fruit bowl and a plate of green grapes.

Gem Bud Vase (Plum)

$158
The Bistrot Serving Set, featuring a stainless steel spoon and fork with red handles and silver rivets in Parisian bistro style, is arranged side by side on a white background.
Sabre

Bistrot Serving Set (Red)

$80
The Remi Decorative Fruit Bowl is a white ceramic woven basket with a wide rim and intricate lattice design, inspired by South of France craftsmanship—perfect as an elegant accent for your home. The Remi Decorative Fruit Bowl is a cream-colored woven ceramic piece featuring an open lattice design, beautifully crafted in the South of France and photographed on a plain white background.

Remi Decorative Fruit Bowl (Ivory)

$598
The Remi Decorative Fruit Bowl is a white glazed ceramic piece crafted to mimic a woven basket with hand-braided clay, shown against a plain white background—ideal as a unique decorative fruit bowl for your home. The Remi Decorative Fruit Bowl is a white glazed ceramic basket featuring a hand-braided woven pattern and wide, shallow shape, perfect for displaying fruit. Shown against a plain white background.

Remi Decorative Fruit Bowl (Ivory)

$748
The Celine Salad Bowl features a black and white floral pattern in iconic serveware style, showcased against a plain white background. The Celine Salad Bowl is a round Aptware ceramic piece with intricate black and white marbled patterns inside, shown from above on a plain white background.

Celine Salad Bowl (Black & White)

$398
The Bistrot Serving Set features a metal spoon and fork with brown, wood-patterned handles and three rivets, side by side on a white background for a Parisian bistro look.
Sabre

Bistrot Serving Set (Buffalo)

$80
The Bistrot Serving Set features a stainless steel spoon and fork with white handles, arranged side by side on a white background, capturing subtle French flair and classic Parisian bistro style.
Sabre

Bistrot Serving Set (Ivory)

$80
The Bistrot Serving Set features a metal spoon and fork with blue handles and three silver rivets, placed side by side on a white background, evoking Parisian bistro style.
Sabre

Bistrot Serving Set (Navy)

$80
The Remi Footed Bowl features a white ceramic pedestal and open lattice design with hand-braided clay details—an elegant decorative fruit bowl or sculptural accent for any tabletop. The Remi Footed Bowl is a round, beige, hand-braided clay piece with a solid circular center and symmetrical glossy pattern—an eye-catching sculptural statement, shown against a plain white background.

Remi Footed Bowl (Ivory)

$548
The Celine Snack Bowl features a handcrafted ceramic design with a green and white floral pattern on a plain white background—ideal as a marbled snack bowl for any occasion. The Celine Snack Bowl is a handcrafted hexagonal ceramic bowl featuring a green, feather-like pattern on white, inspired by Aptware traditions—a unique marbled snack bowl viewed from above.

Celine Snack Bowl (Green & White)

$198
The Celine Snack Bowl is a small ceramic bowl with a wavy rim and a green leaf-inspired pattern on white, styled after classic French serveware. The Celine Snack Bowl is a small hexagonal dish inspired by aptware, showcasing a green and white swirling feather-like pattern centered on a crisp white background.

Celine Snack Bowl (Green & White)

$178
Lauren Ice Cream Bowl in transparent purple bubble glass.

Lauren Snack Bowl (Lilac)

$48
The Celine Salad Bowl is a handcrafted ceramic bowl featuring an intricate green and white floral pattern, set against a plain white background. The Celine Salad Bowl is a round, handcrafted bowl featuring an intricate green and white marbled pattern on the inside, shown from above against a white background.

Celine Salad Bowl (Green & White)

$398
The Remi Decorative Fruit Bowl is a shallow, round, light gray ceramic basket with an open lattice design that makes a striking sculptural statement, shown here as a decorative accent against a plain white background. The Remi Decorative Fruit Bowl is a shallow, round woven basket in a light hue, perfect for displaying fruit or adding an artistic touch to any room. Shown on a plain white background.

Remi Decorative Fruit Bowl (Celadon)

$598
The Remi Footed Bowl features a brown ceramic finish and hand-braided clay lattice sides, creating an elegant sculptural accent against a white background—a standout piece from the decorative fruit bowls collection. The Remi Footed Bowl features a round woven rattan design with a sunburst pattern and a solid center, echoing sculptural elements of Remi decor, and is shown against a white background.

Remi Footed Bowl (Pain Brule)

$548
The Gem Bud Vase is a small, round, dark brown hand-blown glass vase with a wide rim—ideal for single stems or as part of your bud vase collection. Set against a plain white background, it adds handcrafted charm to any space.

Gem Bud Vase (Plum)

$118
The Gem Bud Vase is a hand blown clear glass vase featuring a wide, round body and a short, narrow neck, shown against a plain white background.

Gem Bud Vase (Clear)

$158
The Celine Wine Cooler is a tall, cylindrical Aptware ceramic piece featuring a red and white marbled design with two short white side handles, handcrafted and displayed against a plain white background. The Celine Wine Cooler is a cylindrical Aptware ceramic piece with a marbled brown and white design and two white handles, shown against a plain white background.

Celine Wine Cooler (Brown & White)

$598
The Gem Bud Vase is a clear glass vase with a wide, round body and short, narrow neck, inspired by hand-blown bud vases from the South of France. It is showcased against a plain white background.

Gem Bud Vase (Clear)

$118
The Celine Serving Plate is a handcrafted round ceramic platter with a green and white feather-like pattern, shown from above on a plain white background. The Celine Serving Plate is a handcrafted, shallow round platter featuring a green and white leaf-like pattern, displayed against a plain white background.

Celine Serving Plate (Green & White)

$488
The Remi Decorative Fruit Bowl is a round, shallow, light-colored woven basket displayed against a plain white background. The Remi Decorative Fruit Bowl is a round, shallow woven basket with an open lattice design, evoking the charm of hand-braided clay and displayed against a plain white background.

Remi Decorative Fruit Bowl (Celadon)

$748
The Remi Decorative Fruit Bowl is a round, shallow basket crafted from brown wicker, shown against a plain white background. The Remi Decorative Fruit Bowl is a brown woven wicker basket with an open, round shape, shown against a plain white background.

Remi Decorative Fruit Bowl (Pain Brule)

$598
Black and white swirled ceramic serving platter Black and white swirl platter, side view.

Celine Serving Plate (Black & White)

$488
The Gem Catchall is a round, shallow hand-blown dish with a smoky amber tint, serving as a sculptural accent and displayed elegantly on a plain white background. Three small Gem Catchall olive green glass bowls, filled with dried fruit, shelled pistachios, and unshelled pistachios, sit on an orange and white tablecloth.

Gem Catchall (Olive Green)

$178
The Gem Catchall is a round, smoke green glass bowl with a smooth, transparent surface, serving as a sculptural accent on a white background. Three Gem Catchall smoke green glass bowls are stacked on a folded white cloth napkin with blue stripes, displayed on a table in soft natural light for a sculptural accent.

Gem Catchall (Smoke Green)

$178
A set of two Gem Glasses, expertly hand blown in a conical shape, are placed side by side on a plain white background.

Gem Glass, Set of 2 (Olive)

$98
The Celine Serving Platter is a handcrafted round ceramic plate featuring an intricate black and white feather-like pattern on a plain white background. The Celine Serving Platter is a handcrafted, shallow round ceramic plate with a bold black and white abstract pattern, reminiscent of Aptware marbling, shown on a plain white background.

Celine Serving Platter (Black & White)

$548
The 9.47 Table Knife is a straight-edged French knife with a silver blade and black handle, shown on a plain white background. The 9.47 Table Knife features a handmade stainless steel straight, pointed blade and a dark handle, shown against a plain white background.
Perceval

9.47 Table Knife (Navy)

$98
The Remi Decorative Flower Fruit Bowl features a woven lattice design crafted from hand-braided white ceramic, displayed against a plain white background for a sculptural statement. The Remi Decorative Flower Fruit Bowl is a white ceramic statement piece with an open lattice, woven design, shown against a plain white background.

Remi Decorative Flower Fruit Bowl (Ivory)

$598
The Remi Decorative Flower Fruit Bowl features a shallow, round ceramic shape with an open lattice design and twisted rope-like rim and base, making it a striking sculptural centerpiece for displaying fruit on any plain white background. The Remi Decorative Flower Fruit Bowl is a round, shallow basket with a wide opening, crafted from light-colored material and displayed against a plain white background.

Remi Decorative Flower Fruit Bowl (Celadon)

$598