Travel Diary: Venice

We’re long overdue for a recap of our Italian sourcing trip—spanning Venice, Bassano del Grappa, Siena, Puglia, Salerno, Naples, and Rome. Maybe it’s taken so long because we covered so much ground, and for a verbose gal like me, condensing it all into a newsletter is no small feat. So rather than attempting the full play-by-play, let’s start at the beginning - in Venice.

This leg of the journey was extra special because our mothers joined us, making every moment richer. We spent our days chatting, eating, and wandering (or, as we like to say, noodling) through the city together. They also brought their discerning eyes (and plenty of opinions!) to the table, which was a joy to have in the PORTA mix.

Where we stayed

We checked into Palazzo Experimental, a canal-side hotel in a restored Renaissance palace. Designer Dorothée Meilichzon pairs Art Deco touches with playful, curvy, colorful furniture and fittings inspired by Italy’s 1980s Memphis design movement. The result? Light, airy, fun, and whimsical—a refreshing take on Venice.

Where we ate

Locanda Montin – A classic, tucked-away Venetian institution that’s hosted everyone from Modigliani and Ezra Pound to David Bowie. You enter through a tiny storefront into a garden oasis, where you’ll find fried artichokes, bigoli pasta with anchovies, and other traditional Venetian delights.

Corte Sconta – A real gem in the heart of Venice. Inside, it’s got that nostalgic trattoria charm, but the true magic is in the vine-shaded courtyard. The menu is simple but spot-on, with fresh seafood and Venetian classics.

Locanda Cipriani – Over on Torcello, where the Venetians fled from the barbarians in the 5th century, there’s Locanda Cipriani—a world-famous restaurant that Ernest Hemingway adored. He spent months here in the 1940s, shooting ducks and writing Across the River and Into the Trees. The food? Impeccable. The service? Perfect. Take a water taxi and don’t forget to visit Santa Maria Assunta, a Byzantine basilica with breathtaking mosaics, and the oldest cathedral in the lagoon.

Harry’s Bar – Speaking of Cipriani, no trip to Venice is complete without stopping at the iconic Harry’s Bar. Touristy? Yes. Timeless? Also yes. A Bellini and those little ham-and-cheese toasties are a must.

Favorite Shops

Piedaterre – The original Venetian slipper 'Friulane' specialists, dedicated to decades of Italian ingenuity and world-class craftsmanship. Each pair is still handmade by local craftspeople, keeping alive a tradition that has been passed down for generations. These shoes continue to be one of Venice’s most enduring icons.

Chiarastella Cattana – A fabric designer who works with time-honored weaving mills in Alto Adige, blending tradition with contemporary color and pattern. Her boutique is housed in the Scuola dei Mureri, a former 17th-century congregation building, making it just as special as the textiles inside.

Martinuzzi – Right on Piazza San Marco, this shop is a den of inspiration. It’s filled with classic, made-in-Venice homewares, from linens to glass. Walking in feels like stepping into a slightly cluttered but fabulous tea parlor—the kind you just want to get lost in.

Antica Legatoria Ofer Ebru – A paper lover’s dream. Handmade books, notebooks, prints, and stationery, plus gorgeous marbled papers in Western, Japanese, and Turkish (Ebrù) styles. Everything is crafted with low-impact, sustainable materials on antique machinery, including a cast-iron press and traditional shears, which you can see in action right there in the shop.

Legatoria Piazzesi – Paper, paper, paper! The oldest paper shop in Italy, still operating in its original 1851 location. What started as a small bookbinding workshop evolved under Carlo Piazzesi into a producer of hand-printed decorative papers—a tradition that lives on today.

Product Sourcing

Glass, glass, glass – We made our way to Murano, visiting a mix of factories and tiny, family-run studios. Across the board, everyone was talking about rising energy costs, which are pushing prices up. Another challenge? Young people leaving Venice and not taking over the family businesses—two very real threats to the industry. It was a reminder that Murano glass is a rare and special craft, one that requires continued support to keep its traditions alive.

Trompe-l'œil ceramics – My Venetian grandmother adored whimsical, fantastical ceramics—think a pumpkin that opens up to reveal steaming soup. If you keep your eyes peeled in Venice, you’ll find little shops filled with these playful pieces—asparagus-shaped terrines, eggplant bowls, and melon dishes for every culinary delight. Together, they create a delightful theatrical overload, and we were so charmed that, of course, we hunted down a producer, subjected ourselves to a heavy edit, and put together a special selection. Now, we bring you our Radicchio and Artichoke serving bowls, platters, and plates—a joyful nod to this Venetian tradition.